Getting here

By air

The most direct route is to Split airport which has connections to London Gatwick, Stansted and Luton with Easyjet, WizzAir and Croatia Airlines. Split airport lists airlines and arrivals.

You can also fly to Zadar with Ryanair which is significantly cheaper but you will need to take a bus for 2.5 to 3 hours down to Split.

Another route is to fly to Zagreb with Easyjet or Croatia airlines and come down by train/bus or fly to Ancona with Ryanair (see below for onward travel to the island).


If you’re coming overland there is a train route from Zagreb which is a bit slow but modern. It never used to have food on board so worth taking some with you – the sleeper is great fun and you can either sleep in the seat or take a cabin with a bed. Don’t expect a great night either way but it’s nice to arrive in the morning in Split when it’s cool.

Motorways in Croatia are better than the UK and so this is a good route from Zagreb to Split but at peak times traffic may be heavy and borders/toll booths may be slow. The route is through a pretty hot/barren part of the country so make sure you carry lots of water and some food in case you break down, although there are normal SOS phones.

Buses are still the main form of travel in the Balkans – you can check the Split bus station here for arrivals / departures.

By sea

You can take a ferry from Ancona in Italy direct to Stari Grad on Hvar with Jadrolinija overnight, or a faster day crossing with snav or Blue Lines.

In the past you could take a ferry with Jadrolinija from Bari in Italy to Dubrovnik and stay on the ferry all the way up the coast to Stari Grad but it looks like they’ve stopped this service. You can still go from Bari to Dubrovnik but you’d then have to take a bus up the coast.

Getting to the island

From Split airport you can either take a sea plane direct to Jelsa on the island with ECA or take a bus into Split and take the ferry to Stari Grad (several times a day) or catamaran (once a day, no cars) to Jelsa. Don’t take the catamaran to Hvar as this will take you to Hvar Town which is at the wrong end of the island.

Getting to the village

If you’ve got a car then you can look at the location page to see where we are – coming from Svirće continue past the restaurant Konoba Vrisnik and go up the hill until you feel like you leave the village and nearly at the top, take a left by the war monument back down into the village and park in the square.

There’s a bus route too but it seems to depend on how the stars are aligned whether it runs or not. The best you can hope for is to be dropped near Svirće (pronounced Sveercha) and then walk the 1km up to the house. Alternatively Jelsa is the nearest main town, about 1 hour walk uphill – you can buy a map from the kiosk.

Taxis are available from the ferry port but can be expensive/extortionate. The charge is about 200kuna (£25) to get up to the house.

Getting to the house

The house is about 100m from the square – walk down from the square and take a right turn at the t-junction, straight on from there on the level you should find Bukvina Kuća.  


During the summer please park beneath the bakery as it is too busy in the square – drive back up to the monument and turn right down towards Svirće, before you pass Konoba Vrisnik there is a blue P sign on the road and you take a right turn up a concrete ramp behind the bakery. Park anywhere on the left away from the doors as people store materials inside they need to get to. You can walk up to the house on a much more direct route than you can drive.